Text by Tõnis Tamme, photos by Solveiga Kalva, Phil Gould, Gery Saarep and Hans Markus Antson
Estonia, though small in size, is one of the most nature-rich countries in Europe. Nearly half of the land is covered by forests, while extensive bogs, lakes, rivers and meadows create a mosaic of habitats that support an exceptionally diverse range of wildlife on such a small scale. Thanks to relatively low population density and a strong ties to nature, many species that have disappeared or declined elsewhere in Europe still thrive here. Large mammals such as brown bears, wolves and lynxes roam the forests, while vast numbers of migratory birds use Estonia’s wetlands and coastal areas as crucial stopover sites along the migratory corridor to Arctic. What makes Estonia especially remarkable is how accessible this nature is — even in urban environments wildlife remains close at hand
TALLINN
Starting from the capital city of Estonia, Tallinn, there are extraordinary opportunities to see wildlife within the city itself as well. Being one of the greenest city in Europe, Tallinn doesn’t disappoint with the number of different parks and green areas spread all around the capital. Even sandy beaches and rare coastal meadows can be found within the city borders. One of these places is called Paljassaare, which is a peninsula, to the north-west from the city centre. Paljassaare with its marshy meadows, reeds and waterbodies between them offer a very good chance for the waders and other waterfowl to rest on their migration as well as breed in the area. Different species of ducks (Northern Shoveler, Eurasian Teal, Tufted Ducks, Common Pochards etc), waders (Lapwings, Oystercatchers, Redshanks, Greenshanks, Common and Little Ringed Plovers etc) are most sighted at Paljassaare, as well as a variety of rarer species. Grebes (Little Grebes, Red-necked Grebes, Slavonian Grebes) and rails (Western Water Rail and Common Moorhen) find the wet and reedy area perfectly suitable for breeding. Some passerines (Eurasian Penduline-tit and Bearded Reedling) are also found there. In the spring and early summer, the low-pitched Eurasian Bittern often lets its deep call be heard all around the reedbed.
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK
Estonia is also home to a remarkable geological feature, the Baltic Klint, an erosional limestone escarpment that can be seen along much of the northern coastline. In many places, the limestone layers end abruptly, forming a steep cliff (highest at Ontika, where it reaches 55 meters). Where rivers cross this cliff line, they create picturesque waterfalls as they fall down the escarpment. The highest natural waterfall of Estonia, Jägala Waterfall with is 8-meter drop is one of the main sights half an hour away from Tallinn. Further to the east, in the Lahemaa National Park, the smaller waterfalls in Vasaristi, Nõmmeveski and Joaveski are also noteworthy, as in all the river gorges the Kingfishers, Grey Wagtails, as well as White-Throated Dipper are often sighted. When staying on one specific place for longer period, some Eurasian Otters might show some actions in the river and surroundings.
Lahemaa, established in 1971 and covering more than 700 km², is one of Estonia’s largest and most important protected forest areas. Its diverse ecosystems include coastal habitats, wetlands, boreal forests, and semi-natural grasslands, alongside valuable geological and cultural heritage sites. The park is home to the elusive Eurasian Lynx, which preys mostly on the Roe Deer. Elk roam the forests, sometimes pursued by Grey Wolves. Every now and then there might be some Brown Bear tracks or scat found in the middle of the gravel roads.
Birdlife is equally impressive. Before sunset, Pygmy Owls may be seen or heard, while Tawny and Ural Owls become active after dark. Along the coast, White-tailed Eagles patrol the skies, in search for some ducks or other watefowl. The forests host a rich diversity of woodpeckers (Black, Grey-headed, White-backed, Great Spotted, Middle Spotted, Lesser Spotted, and Three-Toed Woodpecker) as well as grouse species: Hazel Grouses and Capercaillies in dense woodland, and Black Grouses and Grey Partridges in more open habitats.
ALUTAGUSE NATIONAL PARK AND PEIPSI LAKE
Further to the east there is Alutaguse National Park which is the region of the largest coniferous forests and bogs in Estonia. This is also the natural transitional zone between European mixed forest and taiga, also named as western taiga. Therefore, it is also home to some of the rarer species found in these types of ecosystems, such as Flying Squirrels and Willow Ptarmigan. An interesting fact is that half of Estonian Brown Bear population (more than 500 individuals) roams around here, most of which have come from Russia, over Narva River. In Alutaguse, there is even a bear hide where it is possible to observe bears, elk and other mammals and birds. Grey Wolves have also been sighted from the hide. In the area different types of woodpeckers and grouses can be found here, as well. The area is rich in different owl species: Pygmy Owl, Ural Owl, Boreal Owl, Tawny Owl, Short-eared Owl, and Long-eared Owl. Even the extremely rare Great Grey Owl has been sighted here. On the coast of Lake Peipsi White-tailed Eagles and Ospreys are often seen, catching fish.
South along the coast of Lake Peipsi lies Tartu, the second-largest city in Estonia. Nearby, just couple of kilometers from the City Center, there is Aardla Polder with Emajõgi floodplain and Haaslava fishponds, one of the best inland birdwatching areas in Estonia. There have been sighted more than 220 bird species (most of them migratory) on the polder and adjacent areas. In the spring migration, there are thousands of Greater White-Fronted Geese and Tundra Bean Geese (in year 2020, more than 85 000 individuals were counted). Also, Barnacle Geese with Red-breasted Geese. It is a perfect place to spot different wader species as well (Ruff, Sandpipers, Lapwing, Curlew, Common Snipe, even a rare Great Snipe might be seen during the lekking time). In addition, there are lots of ducks, gulls, even Black Terns and White-Winged Terns. Among the rails, Corncrakes, Water Rails, Spotted Crakes, Little Crakes and Common Moorhens can be found here. Among smaller passerines, different Warblers, Pipits, Wagtails, Yellowhammer, Reed Buntings, and even Bluethroats are sighted on the polder.
To capture extraordinary pictures of the birds and mammals, there is a professional wildlife photography hide some 45 kilometers to the south from Tartu, where it is possible to see different raptors, such as Goshawks, Sparrowhawks, Marsh Harriers, Common Buzzards, White-tailed Eagles and some different Woodpeckers and even Kingfisher. Regarding mammals, Red Foxes, Raccoon Dogs, and Badgers are often sniffing around the area by the hide. Sometimes, a Weasel comes out and searches for its catch.
SOOMAA NATIONAL PARK AND PARNU
Further to the west, in almost 150 kilometers away lies Soomaa National Park, known for its enormous bogs, slow-paced rivers, beautiful meadows and the annual flood period in the spring, also known as Fifth Season. The National Park is ideal for canoeing either during the flood period where it is possible to canoe even over the fields, meadows and through the forest, or during summer when the river is usually lower and follows its right path. Quite often, Kingfishers accompany the canoe hike. Soomaa is a perfect place for going on a bog hike – with bogshoes (same as snowshoes). After the walk, resembling a duck waddle, it is freeing to take them off and have a refreshing dip in a bog pool. Regarding wildlife watching, Soomaa has meadows that are suitable for Corncrakes and Great Snipes. In the bogs, Black Grouses, Curlews, Cranes and Meadow Pipits can be seen or heard. On the quiet forest roads, even Capercaillies might show themselves, and sometimes even Golden Eagles fly over.
MATSALU NATIONAL PARK
On the other side of Soomaa National Park, on the coast lies Pärnu, the summer capital of Estonia which is well known for its beautiful parks, beach and spa hotels. Coastal meadows and polders belong to the city area as well that attract lots of waterfowl. Further to the west, there is Matsalu National Park that include the shallow Matsalu bay, its coast with the estuary and flood plains of the Kasari River, and over 50 small island that offer undoubtedly the most important stopovers for waterfowl on their migration between Western Europe and Arctic. Every year there are more than 2 million individuals of waterfowl that fly over Matsalu and more than 200 000 individuals will stay shorter or longer in the area. The peak time to see the migratory birds are either in spring (April-May) or in autumn (September-October).
The coastal meadows of Matsalu are one of the biggest in the whole Europe and they offer breeding spots for different Sandpipers, Curlews, Lapwings, even for the rare subspecies of Dunlin (Calidris alpina schinzii). Among the migratory waders, Ruffs and Grey Plovers are often sighted. On the meadows and fields, there are thousands of Cranes and different geese who feed on the areas.
In the summer, Corncrakes, Spotted Crakes, River- and Savi’s Warblers, Great Reed-Warblers, Sedge Warblers, Blyth’s Reed Warblers, Common Grasshopper-Warblers, Common Reed-Warblers, Marsh Warblers are easy to hear, as well as Eurasian Bittern, Bearded Reedling and Western Marsh-Harriers in the reedy areas. In some places it is possible to spot different raptor species: White-tailed Eagle, which is the most common one, Golden Eagles, Lesser Spotted Eagles, Hen Harriers, Montagu’s Harriers, even Pallid Harriers.
Regarding mammals, Golden Jackals have found their way from South-Eastern Europe to Estonia, preferring the open meadows on the coast of Western Estonia. Quite often Elk are seen on the fields, especially from the observation towers within the National Park, since it is prohibited to hunt there. Wolves and Lynxes lurk around the area, as well as Beavers building their dams in the Kasari River.
In the early summer, West Estonia with its alkaline soil with limestone basis offer a perfect growing condition for different varieties of Orchids.
Further north from Matsalu National Park, there is Põõsaspea Peninsula which is one of the best places to observe Arctic waterfowls during the migration. In addition to different geese and waders, many Velvet Scoters, Common Scoters, Wigeons, Auks, Long-tailed Ducks and Divers are often spotted here. There might even be some extremely rare Steller’s Eiders passing by.
Back nearer Tallinn, there is one of the youngest natural reserves in Estonia: Sõrve Nature Reserve, that was founded in 2023. This reserve protects different calcareous meadows, forests, bogs and floodplains and this offers a suitable habitat for different Owls (Boreal Owl, Pygmy Owl, Ural Owl) and Woodpeckers (Three-toed Woodpecker, White-backed Woodpecker and Black Woodpecker). Even Badgers, Elk, different Bat species, Lynxes and even Wolves might be seen here.
In conclusion, despite the small size of Estonia, it offers an enormous variety of wildlife observation possibilities throughout the whole country. From coastal meadows and ancient forests to vast bogs, Estonia truly stands out as a hidden gem for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts alike.
